I still grind the NL5 I've decreased the number of played table because and want to be focus as much as possible because if I want to progress I need to be focus even at these limits. So tomorrow I will make my SR and try to post some review hands.
For the moment I work the basics with one french ebooks and I will put my summary here for me and if you can criticise it would be great.
Avoid self-satisfaction, sometimes you have won some money with a wrong decision and even if you are better than some other player you always need to work and progress.
Take into account the little pot lost and the regular decision in small pot.
Engagement theory:
Stop being focalize on the money you put in the pot. Thinking how much you have invested in the pot and forget your hand it’s not as good as you think.
Think about objective facts and take the optimum decision and not think about how much you have put with your monster during 2 streets and be raise at the turn or at the river. But villain has the same problem so it could be a leak that could be exploited.
The important value of the position:
What is the advantage of the position?
Remove to our opponent the possibility to close a bid run.
o Play in position allow you to gain more when you won and lose less when you lost the hand
Information:
Vilain OOP c/c on the flop this move gives a lot of information.
o Most of the time the first betting rounds give not so much information, if we raise and be calling by villain. Vilain will usually check the flop because whatever he had, he will check most of the time because he knows that we will we Cbet. And it’s the same if we call a raise and villain Cbet OOP, we know that this will occur frequently.
o You will have information when the game sequence is going to be more precise. The most common it’s when you open and that villain c/c the flop. Why ? Because c/c on a drawy board it’s nearly sure that he has a medium hand. Why because if he had a strong hand like a set or a TPTK with a drawy board, it’s common that the player will raise you to protect his hand. And also because he doesn’t have the position, so he can’t close each rounds so, it’s more difficult for him to bluff or catch value by checking.
So when villain check/call a board, it’s usually a medium hand which with he doesn’t want to put too much money in it and preferring wait an amelioration of his hand.
If you found this it will be a good way to put some bluff like 2 or 3 barrel if the board doesn’t hit the range of villain. But don’t plan a bluff if you are opponent are bad by being too passive and calling station. Try this if villain fold too often.
You need to favor a bet on a high card and not a brick, you’re move need to be coherent because villain will not believe you if you bet on a card which doesn’t change anything.
Odds and outs:
I prefer using the equity than the odds and outs. Like if the pot is 10e and villain bet 10e, I need to call 10e to win 20e, so a odds of 1:2 but in fact if I would have the equity I just need to do 1: (1+2) = 0,33. So I need more than 33% to have a EV+ call.
To have a simple way when villain bet the pot, we need 33% of equity, if he bet half a pot 25%. After it’s just to see if he bet closer than the pot, in this case you need 30-31% and if he bet at the middle 26-27%. It’s not so much precise but in these cases you will not have to be focus on the odds or even to calculate the exact equity.
But how to find the equity of your hand ?
Count your outs and after it’s depend if you want your equity for the next street or your equity at the showdown.
Equity for each street = (2 * nb outs)+2
Equity = (4*nb outs)
Implied odds:
So if we follow these rules it will be difficult to win money by calling a bet when we have a draw. And fortunately it’s just because these rules are for the explicit odds. There is another rules very useful to win money, it’s the implied odds. I’m not used to make some calculation and I’ve always follow my feeling by knowing that if villain bets ¾ pot 8 outs are ok to call. But with this books and some research I’ve tried to find a mathematical solution. In fact, I have two of them maybe not as practical as I thought but still ok.
One of them is like this:
Pot is 10e, you have a OESD so 8 outs. Vilain bet 8e in the pot, normally you don’t have the odds to call because you need nearly 30% of equity and you have just 2*8+2 = 18%. But with the implied odds you can because if you know that when you will hit your straight villain will bet or c/c, you will improve your odds.
So how knowing your necessary equity to call ? I do like this I know that villain bet little more than ¾ of the pot. The pot is 18e, I need to call 8e so the pot will be 26 and we can imagine that villain will bet again ¾ pot so 20e. So if I call 8e, I could take a 46e pot on the turn. 8/46 it’s like 17% which is inferior than 18% so the call is ok. So you can do the same if villain bet less turn or more flop and see that all change so you need to study every scenario. For example if he bet just 10e instead of 20e you will have a pot of 36e, and 8/36 give more than 18% so it’s not a good call.
Ok I have to admit this is pretty a mess but I think it’s one way to take into account the implied odds.
I have also another way maybe more useful if you use not like me the odds. Take a scenario like this:
opponent bets $10 in to a $10 pot and we have a flush draw so 9 out. 9 outs it’s like 4,2:1 and the pot odds is 2:1 so like before we can’t call normally. But as we’ve seen we can imagine recover some money if we hit our flush. So how to know if we can call ? We need to know how much we will get back when we hit and that work like this:
hand odds – pot odds = 2,2:1
We just have to multiply 2,2 by the bet here 10e and we have 22e it’s the money that we need to recover. In this case depending on villain but I think most of the time with a pot of 30e you will see a bet or a call of 2/3 of the pot.
But try to be careful with the inverse implied odds and also if you search an evident draw.
