This article refers to lesson 2 of the beginners' course:
Beginners' course - Lesson 2
Lesson 7: 23/03/2015 Adjustments to the beginner strategy - Post-flop
In this lesson we will show how a beginner can improve his game and develop an advanced beginner strategy, especially when it comes to post-flop play.
You will learn ...
• ... what to take into account regarding an advanced beginner strategy.
• ... how to optimise your post-flop play:
- What do you have to take into account regarding hand strength categories?
- How do I optimise my post-flop play after raising pre-flop?
- Tips regarding bet sizes
- Advanced adaption to donk bets
- How do I optimise my post-flop play after just calling pre-flop?
• Tips regarding bankroll management
What to take into account regarding an advanced beginner strategy
The more advanced the strategy, the more difficult it is to specify it through predetermined ranges, sample charts and standardised playing styles.
Every player has to judge for himself when and how to play, and take responsibility for determining whether his playing style will be the most profitable option in the long run or not.
Therefore, this article won't present any more sample charts or ranges. Instead you will be shown how to start thinking about spots and how to further improve your game on your own.
How to optimise your post-flop play
Any recommendations for optimisation always depend on the respective spot you're currently in.
If you are unsure whether deviating from the beginner strategy presented in lesson 2 makes sense or not, then simply don't adjust your strategy and continue playing according to lesson 2. Afterwards you can post the hand you were unsure about in the working thread of the beginners' course.
What to take into account regarding hand strengths
Of course, there are nuances in each of the four categories (made hands, monsters, strong draws, trash).
For example, a top pair with a T is not as strong as an over pair with AA, or a trash hand not consisting of over cards is significantly weaker than, for instance, holding two over cards like AK.
These nuances lead to different playing styles making more sense in specific spots.
How to optimise your play after raising pre-flop
Because of the mentioned nuances regarding hand strengths it is not possible to cover any possible situation within a single article. Therefore, we will present one example for a feasible deviation in playing style for each category.
Made hands:
Especially when up against only one opponent, it can make sense to deviate from the standard playing style with made hands by not continuation betting on the flop. However, this should only be done when ...
• ... there are no draws on the board that the opponent could have in his range (betting against those is the better play).
• ... you are really only up against one opponent on the flop.
• ... your opponent could only hold a few or no weaker top pairs at all.
• ... your opponent could only hold a few or no mid pairs at all.
Suitable spot:
Unsuitable spot:
If you decided to check in a suitable spot, you should call bets of at most two-thirds of the pot by your opponent on later streets (turn/river), or simply bet yourself.
Monsters:
If you're holding a monster, you should think about which other monster hands are possible and which of these monsters your opponent could be holding.
Sometimes it can make sense to fold a strong hand against a lot of resistance when it's possible that someone hit a better monster on the board.
Example:
After you've bet on flop and turn, your opponent suddenly goes all-in.
Suitable for a fold:
Suitable for a call:
Strong draws:
If you're holding a draw, it is important to understand that betting a strong draw like an OESD or flush draw only makes sense when you also assume that your opponents are still able to fold.
If you're assuming that an opponent will always call anyway, it is better to play your draw passively according to odds and outs.
Hence, when you're up against more than two opponents on the flop, you can basically always assume that semi-bluffing your draw doesn't make sense, unless you're holding a monster draw with 15 outs. The same pattern should be followed when you're up against more than one opponent on the turn.
Trash:
Usually, these hands still won't have enough value to justify a move and should therefore be played as usual.
Tips regarding bet sizes
Since opponents on lower limits won't pay attention to the size of your bets for different hand strengths, it is recommendable to link your bet sizes to hand strengths on NL2 to NL5 in order to play optimally in each spot.
Bluff continuation bet = 1/2 pot size (the opponent only has to fold 33% of his hands to make it a profitable bet)
Made hand = 2/3 pot size (optimal size to ensure the opponents call with a sufficient amount of weaker hands)
Monster = 3/4 pot size (making sure the pot gets as big as possible since you're willing to go all-in anyway)
Apart from the bluff continuation bet that should ALWAYS amount to 1/2 pot size on lower limits, the bet sizes for made hands and monsters only serve as a reference point. In some spots it could make sense to choose a smaller or bigger bet size.
For instance, if you're holding a made hand and a lot of draws are possible that could still call, it definitely makes sense to choose a bigger bet size of 3/4 pot size:
If you're holding a monster on a board on which weaker hands don't really have a lot of options to call, then it could also make sense to just bet 1/2 pot size:
Conclusion:
Always try to adapt your playing style against recreational players on lower limits to the board when you're holding a made hand or monster.
However, adjusting to the board doesn't make sense when it comes to bluff bets since your opponents will usually tend to call with their draws regardless of the chosen bet size. Therefore, it doesn't matter if you're betting 1/2, 2/3 or 3/4 pot size in these spots.
Adaption to donk bets
The special rule for spots in which "the opponent bets first (donk)" (see lesson 2) still applies and offers only little room for adjustments. According to that rule, you should fold your hand when you're holding a good made hand but the opponent donk bets 2/3 pot size.
However, when switching to a more advanced playing style, you should rather try to assess the strength of your opponent's donk range and conclude whether you're still ahead often enough with your made hand. If you can still see yourself being ahead you should rather call his donk bet instead of folding right away, especially since you are in position.
In cases like this, it is important to pay attention to the size of the donk bet: If the opponent donks the pot or chooses an even higher bet size, you should simply fold your made hands and only continue with monsters. If he bets 2/3 of the pot or less, you can at call at least once with a made hand.
On the turn and river you'll simply have to make the same assessment as before. If you still see yourself ahead from time to time, you can continue calling or bet yourself when the opponent suddenly decides to check. If you assume that you're beaten, simply play check/fold instead.
How to optimise your post-flop play after just calling pre-flop
The same approach as before applies. You should try to assess which range your opponent could be holding and how you're holding up against that range with your hand. Subsequently, most decisions become self-explanatory.
Made hands:
When you're holding a made hand in a pot where you've just called pre-flop, you can usually stick to the recommendations (see lesson 2) since those represent the right play in the majority of the cases.
Deviating from that strategy can make sense when you are, for instance, holding a made hands against several opponents on a flop with a lot of draws and you don't want to risk everyone checking behind after you've decided to do so out of position.
For instance, you could take the initiative in the following spot and directly bet 2/3 pot size when you're up against more than one opponent on the flop:
Monsters:
Simply continue playing these hands aggressively by betting them right away when you're up against several opponents or when a lot of draws are possible on the flop.
If you're only up against one opponent or when the flop is particularly dry, you can also consider just playing check/call from time to time to give your opponent the opportunity to bluff again on the turn:
Strong draws:
Simply continue playing strong draws according to odds, outs and implied pot odds.
Trash:
Trash hands are still nothing that can be played in a reasonable manner, therefore simply check/fold them as usual.
Tips regarding bankroll management
From NL10 onwards we recommend that you always have at least 30 stacks for the current limit in your bankroll. Furthermore, you should move down a limit as soon as you only have 30 stacks left for that limit.
However, in general, the most important aspect is that you should always feel comfortable with your own bankroll management. So if you prefer to play with at least 40 stacks or even 50 stacks or more, simply do so and ensure that you're playing without pressure and with a clear mind, even when losing a stack unluckily from time to time.
gonna follow!
)
villain checks, so I bet because of two reason: pretend that I have the flush, and also villain gives up his hand, which would mean that he does not have flush (I think he would not check-raise at this level, right?) and probably not a KK+ - he would set his continuation bet in this case (at least I would).
btw I'm not a properly beginners even if for many different reasons I'm still in such category 
) and with great enthusiasm was present last night excited and ready to enjoy your lesson but because I'm a lucky guy, my laptop dumped me and I just catch the first few minutes. 
No Limit Beginners Course Coaching by confidant91.
basic
Hope you liked it 
