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"EXAMPLE 2
100BB stacks
Preflop: Hero is SB with 58s
UTG+1 limps, MP+1 limps, Hero ???
Again, the chart recommends a fold here. And again, this will be the right choice in situations in which you don't have any additional information available, as is the case here - you are playing against two unknowns. Assume, though, that one of the two limpers is a fish, who is strongly tilting. He is sitting at the table with a little more than 100BB, just like you. Suddenly you realise that you are much better off calling instead of folding because you are very likely to win if you hit."
Question: How much do he need to have for a profitable call in the sb? Does he need to have 100bb for this call to be profitable? And does he have to be tilting when he is a bad player?=)
The more money they have the more implied odds you theoretically have.
I wouldn't bother with any stacks under 40-50 BB so that's what I'd go with.
The problem with 58s as well as other similar hands is that your draws are never strong and even when you hit there are many better draws that they could have and you end up with reversed implied odds.
But with a tilting fish for example the chance they stack off super light or try to bluff you have increased significantly.
NL Beginners Course>BONUS: Crushing NL50>Blind Stealing:
"Overall, it is particularly the loose players, especially those with a small stack, who you should only rarely raise against. You wouldn't consider the strategic use of a postflop continuation bet against them because of their small stack size in relation to the pot. Moreover, these players can only make relatively few big mistakes against you."
Question: If you put him on a range (lets say he's got 50bbs left and is not that crazy) and you think he didn't hit that flop most of the times, isn't it better to bluff there than give the pot away?
NL Beginners Course>BONUS: Crushing NL50>Startinghandschart
Against tight opponents, however, you have to pay attention to the potential for hands that are hard to recognise and very strong (sets, flushes, straights), not so much to pairs. These very rarely make it into the showdown in the first place, because you or your opponent would be very likely to fold beforehand.
Question: So i shouldn't steal with like KT, QT+, JT, Ax, Kxs and PP? More like small to medium SC, connectors and small to medium suited one gapers since if you hit a K or an ace you don't know if you're good or not?
Let's look at the following constellation: Hero is BU, SB and BB are tight (PokerStrategy.com-) big stacks. You could very well raise with each ace, each connector 45+, each one-gapper 46+, each suited king, and so on
Question: And so on? Qx? Other?
Originally posted by hvard92
NL Beginners Course>BONUS: Crushing NL50>Blind Stealing:"Overall, it is particularly the loose players, especially those with a small stack, who you should only rarely raise against. You wouldn't consider the strategic use of a postflop continuation bet against them because of their small stack size in relation to the pot. Moreover, these players can only make relatively few big mistakes against you."
Question: If you put him on a range (lets say he's got 50bbs left and is not that crazy) and you think he didn't hit that flop most of the times, isn't it better to bluff there than give the pot away?
The qoute above does not really apply to 50 BB stacks which are actually mid stacks.
Small stacks are usually 30 BB or less.
Bluffing implies that better hands fold and if he has enough that can fold you can of course bet instead of giving up.
Originally posted by hvard92
NL Beginners Course>BONUS: Crushing NL50>StartinghandschartAgainst tight opponents, however, you have to pay attention to the potential for hands that are hard to recognise and very strong (sets, flushes, straights), not so much to pairs. These very rarely make it into the showdown in the first place, because you or your opponent would be very likely to fold beforehand.
Question: So i shouldn't steal with like KT, QT+, JT, Ax, Kxs and PP? More like small to medium SC, connectors and small to medium suited one gapers since if you hit a K or an ace you don't know if you're good or not?
Let's look at the following constellation: Hero is BU, SB and BB are tight (PokerStrategy.com-) big stacks. You could very well raise with each ace, each connector 45+, each one-gapper 46+, each suited king, and so on
Question: And so on? Qx? Other?
It does not say you shouldn't steal with those hands but rather to pay attention how they play postflop. In other words you don't go broke with KT on a Kxx...
As far as the second question goes yes Qx, Jx, etc.
Lesson 2
Question 1: What do you think you could play differently than suggested in the BSS Starting Hands Chart and why?
- If the pot is multiway, i could complete in the sb with SC and suited one gapers from 45s+, 46s+. Suited two gapers from 47s+ if the opponent is likely to stack off light and has at least 40bb's. This will be +EV whereas folding will only result in a neutreal EV.
- You could call a raise with AK against a tight player if you are in good position and that there's not likely that the blinds will join. Same with QQ's
-Openraise with KQ in MP
- If someone minraised, you could call with SC in MP if it's not likely that someone would 3bet
Blindstealing
- Against loose players, you should steal with hands that have a higher potential for medium strong hands dominate their preflop callingrange
- Against tight players, you could (if you are in late position and only tight player are behind to act) you could steal with E.G. Any ace, any pair, Kxs, Qxs, Suited connectors, suited onegapers, offsuited connectors aswell as offsuited one gapers, since they will fold a decent number of hands in the blinds. And it is very well possible to reach an value stealingrange of 40% in late position.
Isolation
- If you are in late position and only tight players are going to act behind you and a tight player openlimps before you, you could try to isolate him with a suited connector or PP because he is most likely limping with a small PP and in rare cases suited connectors and most likely he won't continue on the flop unless he hits a set so you will profit from this move since you have a lot of fold equity against him aswell as position and initiative. This doesn't mean that you could steal with any two every time a tight player limps because you also have to take into account the inaccuracy of the information that the players behind you would fold
- If you are in late position and a loose player limps, you should try to isolate with medium strong hands like KJs that dominate their hands on average. You will profit from this because you gain initiative and fold equity aswell as position and you could either take the pot preflop or postflop. If this doesn't work, you still have a strong hand and position and your hand could may still improve.
Call15 rule
- If you forexample trying to steal with a PP in CO+, then you get 3bet, you could follow this call15 rull which means that you and your opponent needs to have at least 15 times the raise of the opponents raise in our stacks.
Question 2: Do you have questions about your preflop play? Post your hand for evaluation. ( Post your hand in the Hand evaluation forums and provide a link to your hand in your private thread in the Locker Room.)
Question 3: What is the equity of AKo against the top 5% range? 5% means 88+, AJs+, KQs, AKo.
Equity Win Tie
MP2 53.68% 45.27% 8.41% { 88+, AJs+, KQs, AKo }
MP3 46.32% 37.91% 8.41% { AKo }
Hi Hvard,
Great work with the homework.
It looks like you did put a lot of time into it !!!
For "- If you are in late position and only tight players are going to act behind you and a tight player openlimps before you, you could try to isolate him with a suited connector or PP because he is most likely limping with a small PP and in rare cases suited connectors and most likely he won't continue on the flop unless he hits a set so you will profit from this move since you have a lot of fold equity against him aswell as position and initiative. This doesn't mean that you could steal with any two every time a tight player limps because you also have to take into account the inaccuracy of the information that the players behind you would fold"
You can definitely isolate more than just PPs and suited connectors. Suited aces and other hands can be added vs people that limp/fold a lot or limp/call and ck/fold flop a lot.
Hi Hvard,
Great work with the homework.
It looks like you did put a lot of time into it !!!
Thanks man:)
You can definitely isolate more than just PPs and suited connectors. Suited aces and other hands can be added vs people that limp/fold a lot or limp/call and ck/fold flop a lot.
Ok. I'll try to keep this in mind, good to know.
You can definitely isolate more than just PPs and suited connectors. Suited aces and other hands can be added vs people that limp/fold a lot or limp/call and ck/fold flop a lot.
"And more". Do you mean i can isolate tight limpers with the same range i use when i steal their blinds? Could you be more specific? 
What are the characteristics of a tight limper?
Think about those and see if you can answer your own question.
What are the characteristics of a tight limper?
Think about those and see if you can answer your own question.
Characteristics of a tight limper would be low VPIP i guess? But if his PFR is high it may be a trap since he probably would raise his PP's. But if his VPIP is low and PFR is low, i could isolate him with hands that could beat a set, so it would be probably offsuit connectors, offsuit one gapers, suited one gaper, suited connectors, Axs, Kxs, Qxs. 72s could beat a set too tho so i don't see why i shouldn't raise that too. Hope i passed x)
Low VPIP means that he limps a stronger range.
If his PFR is also larger so the gap between VPIP and PFR is smaller he generally limps very speculative hands that only limp/call to hit a flop. And since most hands do not hit the flop then you can raise anything that has some playability.
Title is random
I have some questions about the course again.
"Don't slowplay against too many opponents and don't slowplay on draw-heavy boards. Don't slowplay against passive opponents, either. You should only slowplay when you are certain that your opponent will take the bait and overplay his hand."
If you hit a full house on the flop, why not at least check the flop and then bet turn, even multiway, so they can pick up a draw on the turn and maybe hit a straight or a flush on the river?
____________________________________________________________
Some selfmade homework on lesson 3:
A good spot to play for pot control:
If i forexample raise with AJ in CO and a tight player calls in
BB and i make a standard cbet with top pair. If i get called here, i
should be worried since he could have a top pair with better
kicker or a set. What i could do on the turn, to minimize
losses from better hands is to check for potcontrol and
keep the pot small. If he has a better hand, he loses one
street of value. If he has a worse hand, he could be encouraged
to bluff the river or bet because he thinks he has the best hand
since i show weakness on the turn. If he
checks river too, the chances of him calling a riverbet with
worse hands increases because of the check on the turn.
So, by playing for potcontrol:
-I minimize losses from better hands
-Maximize value from worse hands.
A good spot for protection:
You raise preflop with AQ and 2 players calls. The flop is
QJ8tt. You bet BIG (close to pot or pot) to protect your hand
against draws by making the next community card too
expensive for your opponents to draw.
A good spot for maximizing value:
You raise preflop with 88 in CO. SB and BB calls. The flop
is 822r. In this example, there are very little hands that
would continue here so by maximizing value here you would
have to check and let your opponents pick up either a
flushdraw or a straightdraw, a pair or encourage them to do
something stupid. Then you bet the turn for value
and if they actually hit a big hand on the river, you would get
more value here instead of just cbet the dry flop which they
most likely would have folded.
____________________________________________________________
"Always try to find a balance between pot control and protection. You don't have to protect a marginal hand that could already be far behind. "
I think i know what they mean. Is it E.G. That i raise preflop with A :spade:A 
to 16c in BTN and BB calls 16c
(pot>32c)Flop is: J :club:9 :club:7 
I bet 28c, he calls 28c
(pot>88c)Turn: 2 
I bet 55c-60c (So the turn card makes me want to focus more on potcontrol now than protection since he can have me beat...?)
I think you posted this in the wrong area.
I will ask someone to move it in the beginners course and I'll answer it there
I posted this here to get a sooner reply instead of waiting for a whole week. I thought i could post more than just hands here. But if this was too long or something, i accept that i must wait for a week, but it kinda sucks if that is the case 
Most of the other coaches are not following the beginner section so they wouldn't be able to answer you often. I just happened to stumble upon this.
And as a side note I answered all the beginner questions tonight so you would of had an answer there already
Of course , I will stop teasing you right now and give you an answer.
The example you gave could talk about pot control but it only applies when the effective stacks are larger.
For example, if the effective stack is $2 then your bet does not pot control because you can still easily go all in by the river, and since you are OOp villain has the last say.
But if we have $10 effective stack then yes you can say you pot controlled slightly. Another way to pot control there (avoid the raise) is to check the turn. Of course that would lose you tons of value versus his pair hands, and 1 card draws.
And as a side note, i sometimes let some posts sit longer to invite collaboration from others and perhaps some brainstorming from the poster instead of me coming in always with a "ready to go answer"...
The example you gave could talk about pot control but it only applies when the effective stacks are larger.
What is an "effective stack"?
For example, if the effective stack is $2 then your bet does not pot control because you can still easily go all in by the river, and since you are OOp villain has the last say.
$2 preflop or on the turn? Probably isn't that much difference...
But if we have $10 effective stack then yes you can say you pot controlled slightly. Another way to pot control there (avoid the raise) is to check the turn. Of course that would lose you tons of value versus his pair hands, and 1 card draws.
Correct me if i'm wrong. So in this example, there are 2 ways to play for potcontrol. If would have to use each of the methods as practical as possible, i would:
-Check the turn/call river if he was agressive (depending on the card)
-Bet/fold turn or bet/bet small on the river vs passive opponents (depending on the card)
And as a side note, i sometimes let some posts sit longer to invite collaboration from others and perhaps some brainstorming from the poster instead of me coming in always with a "ready to go answer"...
I'm not shure what you mean. Do you mean that you sometimes let some posts sit longer so others can maybe join the discussion?